[susan rudnicki]

OK—so we have that part figured out. Good it does not have to happen right away. Our group is completely treatment free—no foundation, means the bees’ wax is as uncontaminated as possible. We put nothing in the hive to treat for pests or disease nor do we feed artificial pollen patties or artificial syrups in place of honey.
One thing to know about the frames for doing a cutout—you need a FLAT top bar underside to place the combs up against and the “Ray’s Special frames” have a built in comb guide with a triangular profile. These you would use later when they are building their own combs. Don’t get the Ray’s Special for the initial cutout. Get the image of the hive, so you will know what size —deeps or mediums—to get and how many. You should get at least 10 frames to start, and do not fail to buy at least 2 more boxes and attendent frames for growth. You don’t want to need something and not have it on hand—I find newbees do this a lot and they get in a bind.
You can call me anytime—310-374-4779 for talking about things you question. Also, have you read the Idiot’s Guide, our recommended book to start? Be prepared to keep a notebook of all your developments.
Susan

[susan rudnicki]

HI, Amanda—are you sure the colony is a SWARM? This may be a hive, meaning they have drawn out combs and the queen has developing brood (baby bees) If it is a “cutout” —what we call a colony that is established in a place—the re-homing is more complicated. You must have a mentor experienced in this work, and a hive body, bottom board, top board and foundation-less frames with NO starter strips for placing the combs into its new home. Rubber bands are often used to secure the cut combs into the frames until the bees repair the damage and re-attach the wax permanently in the frames.
Ceebs may be able to direct you to a mentor in your area, but I caution that, there are few of us, and sometimes it can take awhile to find someone.
Write us back with the details from above Susan

[susan rudnicki]

teurman@me.com 323-599-6802

[susan rudnicki]

HI, Greg—Chelsea and Rob, the founders of HL, put up guidelines for postings on listings for bees and hives. These are needed to be safe and thorough in urban beekeeping and communicating with a audience that is often just beginning the craft. Please re-post your above note with the relevant information so responders know what is going on—
————————-

For all posts regarding the sale/donation/trade of honey bees or beekeeping equipment, please use our new bulletin board forum and give full descriptions of your situation:

-How many boxes, deeps and mediums?
-Brood nest and honey storage areas?
-How old is the colony?
-Is it from a swarm, cutout, other?
-How often have in-hive inspections been done?
-What would be your assessment of the colony’s attitude to inspection in the brood nest? With proper smoking and preparation, of course.

NOTE: This forum does not necessarily reflect the opinions or practices of HoneyLove.

[susan rudnicki]

Yes, GOOD! emergence intervals for the 3 members of the bee family in Apis mellifera! It is not a expensive book. Come to some meetings and go to the sanctuary hive days out in Moorpark so you can get in some hives Susan

[susan rudnicki]

HI, Karim makes good points—each colony of feral bees has a different “personality” and when they are small and new, they are almost always timid. Once established and grown-up —like teenagers—their behavior becomes more apparent and can run the gamut. Please be sure to attend as many meetings of our club that you can so you can meet other beeks and ask questions (the meeting on the 29th is perfect for you in subject) and read the basic book recommended on our site “Idiot’s Guide to Beekeeping”
PS something about your name is familiar to me…have we met on-line?
Susan

[susan rudnicki]

Ronni–I am OK with coming to Santa Monica. I have mentored in Hollywood and Beverly Hills, so it is not so far. I did not know that you have a swarming “Mother Hive” in the vicinity, which you say “shows up in May” But, there is no way of inducing a swarm to take up residence in the place you wish them to, so I would not count on it. I get boxed swarms and gather swarms myself, so those are sources. Also, we could maybe find you a small cutout to do with me and that is even more instructive for learning. When you get to see a colony in a place where it has built their home in the most natural way, you get to see much of the colony structure and organization all at once. This informs your understanding of honeybee society. Please call me at 310-374-4779 and we can talk more about getting you started Susan

[susan rudnicki]

Hi, Ronni—first, working from behind is what you always WANT to do. The bees get very indignant at some human standing in their flight path, so it is no accident that you have noticed this from the work in Moorpark.
Second, putting your hive on a stand with legs that may be coated with a ant repellent is very important insurance for getting a small colony up and going. Argentine ants are very aggressive and will mob out a new cutout or swarm trying to set up house keeping. Even if you think you don’t have ants, the prevention of this problem is cheap compared to the disaster. The stand should have legs. A small side table, or a purpose built hive stand from Pierce-Mieras honey supply in Fullerton costs about $18, is built of rebar. You buy a tube of “Tanglefoot” sticky ant repellent barrier and place a one inch wide band of it UP HIGH ON THE LEGS—CLOSE TO THE BOTTOM BOARD. This location will get fewer errant bees or dirt and other detritus stuck in the barrier, which reduces its effectiveness.
Something to consider about this deck location is the difficulty you may have if you find later you need to move the bees. Carrying hive bodies through the house or having to lift them over the railing with toggle and rope to the ground presents problems of weight and loose bees. You must always plan for a unacceptable outcome, just in case. Working the bees so close to your bedroom may also not be very good if they have a “bad day” and are riled up. Behind the garage sounds better—its on the ground and further from human traffic.
I have skunks, raccoons, opossums and mosquitos, but these other issues will actually cause you more headaches than the ones you are worried about.
Finally, you don’t mention whether you have a mentor or not, but I will emphasize the importance of you connecting with someone in the club for that guidance. Be prepared to pay them for their time and to stay in touch with them regularly regarding your hive inspections and management of your bees. I mentor quite a few folks and find that one of the most difficult issues is getting the students to KEEP RECORDS. When you are learning this new craft, there is a lot of stuff swirling around in your head as you look into the busy world of the beehive. Deliberate, careful notes of what you see each time allows you to reflect on things later, consider where the bees have been, where they are now, and predict where they may be going in terms of development.
Write back as you need more help! Susan

[susan rudnicki]

Enci—I am not sure how dangerous this might be—shutting the bees in their hive with the hot weather we have been getting could cause a serious overheating of their home—they would be unable to gather water to spread on the walls of the hive to regulate the temperature. The brood nest needs a constant 94-96 degree environment—not too hot and not too cold.
In very hot weather I have seen combs fall out of the frames if the bees are unable to keep the heat low enough. You don’t say how much time the work is actually going to be taking. Could you possibly erect a temporary screen around the hive—the 6 ft reed fencing they sell in a roll at home depot? This would direct their flight path up and over people’s heads but allow for traffic flow.

[susan rudnicki]

Hi, Enci—one thing that should be discussed ahead of time (so no unsafe situations develop with bees that might move in) is who would be qualified and dedicated to maintaining the hive and its inspections and documentation. Do you already have someone in mind? Please post another note!

[susan rudnicki]

This was gone ten minutes after the post went up

[susan rudnicki]

Hi, Bridget—yes, there are folks out your direction. You can funnel the swarm notices through our forum for posting so beeks will see the availability through their email.

[susan rudnicki]

Michael—you should mention where you live so folks will know if they can reasonably offer you a swarm call. Susan

[susan rudnicki]

Wow—I looked at the requirements for Ventura registration and it specifies 400 ft from any dwelling and 150 ft from any road. Most lots would not qualify

[susan rudnicki]

Hi Julie—thanks for letting us know. So far, I have not been getting swarm calls or receiving boxed swarms from my Bee Removal contact, Wendy, who is in the South Bay and brings me her swarm boxes for re-homing.
It is important to watch this list daily for postings of available swarm boxes as most folks with the bees are not going to pursue the people in search of bees but, the other way ’round.
Also, while you are waiting, if you are a new beek (you do not mention) you should try to get linked up with a mentor so you have guidance and help as you go. Have you read the Idiot’s Guide to Beekeeping and do you have your protective clothing, a smoker and hive tool? Our club can help with linking to a mentor—just post your request on this forum

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