[susan rudnicki]

Hi, beeks—since we try to make this forum and bulletin board a educational source, can we please have descriptions of the situation—-why must it be moved ASAP? Is it aggressive? Is the owner moving? Has there been a citation for poor management? What has been the management history of this colony? What was the source—swarm, cutout? How old is it? All these details help newbees learn, and constitute a small “price” for the advantage of listing here. Thank you Susan, moderator

[susan rudnicki]

HI, I have just seen this note—as moderator, I have not been getting my links to posts to my inbox, so am missing things I should remark upon.
You do not say what is meant by “…Both deeps in both hives were full and active ” How many frames of brood in each deep? Did you see eggs? Could they have a queen problem? What does the laying pattern look like?
You do not say what part of the city these hives are in—what is the floral nectar and pollen sourcing going on? Brazilian peppers, melaleuca, and eucalyptus have been in strong flow since early August in the South Bay where I live and are widely planted. I am getting a lot of honey off now.
Weather, honey production, colony health—all these things can vary from year to year. The one certainty about bees that I have seen is, there is no certainty. Are you keeping records of your inspections and what you see when you inspect? This will help with reflecting on solving issues.
Answer the above questions and let us see where that leads. Susan

[susan rudnicki]

YEs, freezing is the only way to kill eggs and adults surviving in the wax. Then, you must seal in zip lock bags.

[susan rudnicki]

Hi, Liz—sorry—I am the moderator, but I am not getting the messages delivered to my inbox when someone posts, so I am just finding your note. It is not possible to use your composter if the bees are to be left undisturbed. They will attach their combs to the lid and sides and if you try to put materials in the composter, it will break their home in pieces. Also, sometimes hot weather will melt the combs attached to the black plastic and they will drop that way. In any case, moving hives from composters into a wood hive box is done all the time, but it takes expertise from someone who knows beekeeping. Also, you may not want to be a beekeeper, so you may want to offer the removal to someone in our club. You do not say what city you are living in—we need to know that. Please write back with a contact number too. thanks!

[susan rudnicki]

Susan Rudnicki is speaking—not a workshop

[susan rudnicki]

Hooray!!! I had campaigned on this,so happy to hear something good finally happens!

[susan rudnicki]

Wow—this looks like lots of fun!! Wish I were going, but the last kidlet is going to college and we are taking a small outing to Big Sur on our final summer holiday. Let ’em know what we are doing in LA saving ferals and not using treatments or foundation or packages!

[susan rudnicki]

Hey, Alex—you are my student in Riverside, yes? To answer your question (something is wrong with the system, I am not getting the posts to my inbox, so just checked the postings and found your inquiry) I share a 3 frame, hand crank extractor with Josip Benko and find it entirely appropriate for the size of my operation. (23 colonies) The cages hold Lang frames without wires or foundation very well, and after uncapping with a uncapping fork, I let the honey drain through a double screen strainer mounted on top of a 5 gallon bucket. The bucket is fitted with a honeygate, so this minimal straining is put right into jars from the lower bucket. I advise having more than one 5 gal bucket with a honey gate so when the first fills, you may switch in the 2nd one.
I do find the deep frames spin much more smoothly than the medium frames, I think because the load is most equally distributed in the deeps. Most of my hives are all deeps anyway, so I just have to suffer a lot more wobbling when extracting the mediums. I put the extractor on a heavy folded towel on a strong wooden arm chair. This is important, for most of the extractors do not have legs unless purchased separately. You must brace the extractor while turning the crank to minimize the vibrations and jumping around. Also, when frames are filled unequally, they don’t spin well. Try to balance the load. I would think a two frame would naturally bounce around more than a 3 frame because of the unevenness of the load balancing potential.
In any case, I think sharing this kind of big equipment with other beeks means you don’t have to lay out all the money, saves resources and storage of the thing can be spread around. I can’t speak to price since I have never bought, but a LOT of cheap stuff is coming from China.

[susan rudnicki]

Hey, Alex—you are my student in Riverside, yes? To answer your question (something is wrong with the system, I am not getting the posts to my inbox, so just checked the postings and found your inquiry) I share a 3 frame, hand crank extractor with Josip Benko and find it entirely appropriate for the size of my operation. (23 colonies) The cages hold Lang frames without wires or foundation very well, and after uncapping with a uncapping fork, I let the honey drain through a double screen strainer mounted on top of a 5 gallon bucket. The bucket is fitted with a honeygate, so this minimal straining is put right into jars from the lower bucket. I advise having more than one 5 gal bucket with a honey gate so when the first fills, you may switch in the 2nd one.
I do find the deep frames spin much more smoothly than the medium frames, I think because the load is most equally distributed in the deeps. Most of my hives are all deeps anyway, so I just have to suffer a lot more wobbling when extracting the mediums. I put the extractor on a heavy folded towel on a strong wooden arm chair. This is important, for most of the extractors do not have legs unless purchased separately. You must brace the extractor while turning the crank to minimize the vibrations and jumping around. Also, when frames are filled unequally, they don’t spin well. Try to balance the load. I would think a two frame would naturally bounce around more than a 3 frame because of the unevenness of the load balancing potential.
In any case, I think sharing this kind of big equipment with other beeks means you don’t have to lay out all the money, saves resources and storage of the thing can be spread around. I can’t speak to price since I have never bought, but a LOT of cheap stuff is coming from China.

[susan rudnicki]

These are gone

[susan rudnicki]

These were quickly taken already

[susan rudnicki]

Hi, Jim—forum moderator here, so will add to this answer. Nan has it about right for the costs. In the club and elsewhere, beeks have discussed this issue of how much training it takes to become a competent and confident beek—TWO YEARS seems about right. Unfortunately, the educational study and hands-on mentoring aspects are the most commonly discarded of the activities of newbees, from what I have experienced.

[susan rudnicki]

Milt—I have tried several times to reply to your email, but it is rejected—
miltezzard@yahoo.com Susan

[susan rudnicki]

Hi, Mark—Good! No tools necessary—Josip and I have all that is needed. Bring a hive body with empty frames (no comb guides or foundation or wires) bottom board, top board, Yes, ratchet straps (2 is best) and a way to close the entrance—piece of wood, screen etc. Bring a full suit, gloves, veil, boots. 589 36th st, Manhattan Beach 90266, 8 am.

[susan rudnicki]

HI, Ronni–so sorry, on the phone with another newbee so ignoring the call waiting. I need to go to Pierce-Mieras before they close today. Call me and leave a message. I will be at the HL meeting tommrow, too S

[Author]

Posts