Agressive hive

[Dave Chapple]

Hi, I live in Los Angeles and have a new hive (April) that I have just expanded to a second deep.
The bees are aggressive and wont let us near the box like a previous colony we had that sadly died from tracheal mites.
Perhaps they are guarding the box from “robbers” since we are feeding them, since it appeared they were eating up the reserves.
Feeding or not feeding syrup, the behavior is the same.

However, we are getting accosted way far away from the hive which raises my flag.

I am thinking this colony may need re queening.
Where do you suggest we purchase a new queen from?
And what type?

If anyone else is experiencing mean bees, would love the hear how you are handling the situation. thanks

[susan rudnicki]

Hi, Dave—Susan, the moderator here. It looks like this is the first time you have visited us—welcome!
For ease of answering, since there are a number of things here, I will insert within your note.

Hi, I live in Los Angeles and have a new hive (April) that I have just expanded to a second deep.
Please tell us what city—if you do not have a mentor (I am guessing you do not) it would help other members to know where you live to get together with you. How did you obtain the hive? A swarm, a cutout, package bees?

The bees are aggressive and wont let us near the box like a previous colony we had that sadly died from tracheal mites.
Every colony of bees is different in personality, fecundity, activity, color, size, etc. How do you know the other bees died of tracheal mites?
“Positive diagnosis can be made only by microscopic examination of honey bee tracheae.” from Clemson Cooperative Extension.

Perhaps they are guarding the box from “robbers” since we are feeding them, since it appeared they were eating up the reserves.
Feeding or not feeding syrup, the behavior is the same.
You do not say how you are feeding them. Typical Boardman (entrance feeders with a Mason jar on top) are invitations to robbing. Better to feed with a baggie feeder on top of the frames using a feeding shim, so the feed is better defended by the occupants. Also, it helps a lot to have your entrance reduced—a 2 or 3 bee wide entrance is much more easily defended. Mine are this size all year. I am assuming the feeding is due to the honey storage not being in proportion to the brood nest size. Some members are reporting having to feed to keep their bees from starving. Again, where you are located will have a big difference to do with this shortage of food. Some parts of LA are really dried up with the lack of Spring moisture.

However, we are getting accosted way far away from the hive which raises my flag.
There can be lots of reasons bees get cranky, and before assuming the genetics is the problem, you would want to investigate issues first. Is it hot? Are they crowded? Are you using proper smoking technique? Are they being inspected every 3 or 4 weeks to assess the living space? When adding a new hive body, you want to open up the brood nest by moving a few of the brood frames up into the middle of the new box. This provides new open space (you do not say if you are foundationless, but I assume you are using frames with comb guides, not foundation sheets) This also “ladders up” the queen into the new space. Are you using a queen excluder? If you are (I do not) and the lower box is crowded, this will lead to swarming and can make them testy, also.

I am thinking this colony may need re queening.
Where do you suggest we purchase a new queen from?
And what type?
I do not buy queens, since most of the breeders are using chemical treatments, large cell bees, and narrow gene selection criteria. The feral genetics of the wild caught bees are more resistant to pests and diseases. I make splits and raise my own queens from strong colonies.

I urge you to come to the next meeting and let us meet you and perhaps help hook you up with a hands on mentor!

If anyone else is experiencing mean bees, would love the hear how you are handling the situation. thanks

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